The
birth of a world climbing Mecca
The bus hammered down a narrow dirt road, the left edge
dropped abruptly into the Pacific Ocean, and on the right jungle branches
continuously beat against the windows, in an endless attempt to regain the
land. We were on one of those quality, and oh so common, South American ``two
lane`` roads, and had to continuously pull into the ditch, or back up to allow
apposing traffic by. James, my partner
in crime for the last two months, had already smashed his head on the massive
television dangling precariously at the front.
We were anxious to get climbing, having just spent way more time than we
intended in the depressing, rundown ocean town of Puerto Montt. Our lack of research was starting to show,
all I knew was that we had to get off at a bridge over a river (how many rivers
could there be joining the ocean from a dense, lush jungle...right?). With the
only two words I knew, ``Cochamo escalada? ``, I started asking all the locals
on the bus. After getting off several times, deciding it couldn’t possibly be
the right place, and continuing on, we eventually crossed the bridge over the
Rio Cochamo.
There we stood with more gear and food than we could
possibly carry, thinking it will all work out somehow...eventually.
Conveniently a young attractive girl showed up shortly, and after inadequately
conversing with her for several minutes, we loaded 200 pounds of gear into her
small two door car. Having absolutely zero room for passengers, we stood
watching the damaged, and incredibly over loaded ca, speed up the washed out
dirt track, hoping that we hadn’t just loaded all or our positions into a thief’s
car. James and I started walking into
the valley, following the tiny car, and after what turned out to be eight
kilometers (we were under the impression she was only going a few hundred
feet), we arrived at the trail head, found our car, and arranged a horse for
9:00am the next morning. Time is a bit different in South America, they are a
lot more relaxed than us North Americas, and as a result our nine in the
morning hoarse showed up at two in the afternoon. Three short hours, and 10 km latter we
arrived at a beautiful meadow, surrounded by spectacular jungle foliage, and
absolutely impressive granite walls.
In the two and a half
weeks of unbelievably splitter weather that followed, we climbed until our
fingertips were boldly and swollen, chalked up, and kept cranking. Even in its current early days, the soaring
granite walls hold lines that will hold their own among the most spectacular lines
in the world.
The cochamo valley is a climbing area in the earliest stages
of development, with committed hard men only recently learning how to unlock
the hidden gems the walls have to offer.
The scale is hard to believe, try imagining The Valley, Squamish, and
Tuolumne all in one. New routing
potential is absolutely endless, there is a 1200m wall with only three lines, a
1600m wall with only one climb, and several 400-800m walls, lots of which don’t
even have names. A time machine is no
longer needed to go back to the glory days of Yosemite, all you need is a plane
ticket, as much time as possible, and a half dozen wire brushes...Get on it!
And unearth some of the world’s best granite free climbs.
A few
undisputed classics
Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio - 5.11a
IV, 3000 Feet
The original classic of the area,
it weaves a clever line up proud face of Cerro Trinidad. The climbing is sustained in the 5.10 range
with a few pitches of 5.11 thrown in for good measure. Prepare for a battle on
the 5.11 butt-crack-flare pitch, and check your head and your partner on the
traversing eighth pitch of 5.11 slab. Thin face and good cracks eventually lead
to a spectacular summit, and views of snow capped volcanoes, granite spires,
and in some cases the South Pacific.
Al Centro y Adentro – 5.11c IV
1500 Feet
A spectacular line described as
being equal in difficulty and quality as Astroman. Difficult face, links into
equivalently difficult features, and splitter cracks, a sustained route with dihedrals,
chimneys, and face all in the 5.11 range.
Las Manos Del Dia – 5.11+ IV 1800
Feet
A true test piece for those who
consider themselves a 5.11 climber, with 8 out of the 12 pitches graded
5.11. This line will test you in every
aspect of 5.11 climbing. Be prepared, one of the world’s finest granite lines.
The
beta
Getting there - Fly into Santiago Chile, then bus south to
Puerto Montt, or Puerto Varas. From there a short 5 hour bus ride will get you
to the town of Cochamo. Get off the bus at the bridge just past town. From
there its 8 km inland to the trail head down a rough dirt road, hitchhike in or
arrange for a ride in the town of Cochamo. The trail is 10 km long, and easy to
follow. It can be very wet and muddy after heavy rains.
Food – Buy all major food in Puerto Montt, of Puerto Varas.
There are several large grocery stores, with a large selection of good cheap
food. Small re-supply trips can be done in the town of cochamo, but expect only
basic food, and at a higher price.
Fuel – White gas is widely available in Chile. Butane
canisters are sometime harder to find.
Cooking over campfires is the norm in good weather.
Camping – Base camp sites are available at La Junta for 5$
U.S per person per night. Camping at the high camps near the walls is free and
is where you’ll spend most of your time.
Free camping is normally offered to those who are putting up new routes,
and willing to help around the Refugio.
When to go – The main climbing season runs from December to
mid March, February is considered the high season, prices can be slightly
higher, but the large horseflies called Tabanos have mostly died off. February
is historically the driest and busiest month. Crowding on climbs is never a
problem.
Weather – Long periods on rain are possible throughout the season,
so come prepared. Tarps, rain gear, and rubber boots are considered the norm.
Gear – A full doubles set of cams is the norm, including at
least one #5, and a set of nuts including micros. Bring aid gear if you’re keen on new routing.
Bolting – bolts can be bought for 5$/bolt and hanger, and
the hammer drill can be used with the understanding that you drop it you bought
it! Hand drilling is also common when the drill’s not around.
