cochamo

The birth of a world climbing Mecca

The bus hammered down a narrow dirt road, the left edge dropped abruptly into the Pacific Ocean, and on the right jungle branches continuously beat against the windows, in an endless attempt to regain the land. We were on one of those quality, and oh so common, South American ``two lane`` roads, and had to continuously pull into the ditch, or back up to allow apposing traffic by.  James, my partner in crime for the last two months, had already smashed his head on the massive television dangling precariously at the front.  We were anxious to get climbing, having just spent way more time than we intended in the depressing, rundown ocean town of Puerto Montt.  Our lack of research was starting to show, all I knew was that we had to get off at a bridge over a river (how many rivers could there be joining the ocean from a dense, lush jungle...right?). With the only two words I knew, ``Cochamo escalada? ``, I started asking all the locals on the bus. After getting off several times, deciding it couldn’t possibly be the right place, and continuing on, we eventually crossed the bridge over the Rio Cochamo.

There we stood with more gear and food than we could possibly carry, thinking it will all work out somehow...eventually. Conveniently a young attractive girl showed up shortly, and after inadequately conversing with her for several minutes, we loaded 200 pounds of gear into her small two door car. Having absolutely zero room for passengers, we stood watching the damaged, and incredibly over loaded ca, speed up the washed out dirt track, hoping that we hadn’t just loaded all or our positions into a thief’s car.  James and I started walking into the valley, following the tiny car, and after what turned out to be eight kilometers (we were under the impression she was only going a few hundred feet), we arrived at the trail head, found our car, and arranged a horse for 9:00am the next morning. Time is a bit different in South America, they are a lot more relaxed than us North Americas, and as a result our nine in the morning hoarse showed up at two in the afternoon.  Three short hours, and 10 km latter we arrived at a beautiful meadow, surrounded by spectacular jungle foliage, and absolutely impressive granite walls.

 In the two and a half weeks of unbelievably splitter weather that followed, we climbed until our fingertips were boldly and swollen, chalked up, and kept cranking.   Even in its current early days, the soaring granite walls hold lines that will hold their own among the most spectacular lines in the world.

The cochamo valley is a climbing area in the earliest stages of development, with committed hard men only recently learning how to unlock the hidden gems the walls have to offer.  The scale is hard to believe, try imagining The Valley, Squamish, and Tuolumne all in one.   New routing potential is absolutely endless, there is a 1200m wall with only three lines, a 1600m wall with only one climb, and several 400-800m walls, lots of which don’t even have names.  A time machine is no longer needed to go back to the glory days of Yosemite, all you need is a plane ticket, as much time as possible, and a half dozen wire brushes...Get on it! And unearth some of the world’s best granite free climbs.

A few undisputed classics

Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio - 5.11a IV, 3000 Feet

The original classic of the area, it weaves a clever line up proud face of Cerro Trinidad.  The climbing is sustained in the 5.10 range with a few pitches of 5.11 thrown in for good measure. Prepare for a battle on the 5.11 butt-crack-flare pitch, and check your head and your partner on the traversing eighth pitch of 5.11 slab. Thin face and good cracks eventually lead to a spectacular summit, and views of snow capped volcanoes, granite spires, and in some cases the South Pacific.

Al Centro y Adentro – 5.11c IV 1500 Feet

A spectacular line described as being equal in difficulty and quality as Astroman. Difficult face, links into equivalently difficult features, and splitter cracks, a sustained route with dihedrals, chimneys, and face all in the 5.11 range.

Las Manos Del Dia – 5.11+ IV 1800 Feet

A true test piece for those who consider themselves a 5.11 climber, with 8 out of the 12 pitches graded 5.11.  This line will test you in every aspect of 5.11 climbing. Be prepared, one of the world’s finest granite lines.

The beta

Getting there - Fly into Santiago Chile, then bus south to Puerto Montt, or Puerto Varas. From there a short 5 hour bus ride will get you to the town of Cochamo. Get off the bus at the bridge just past town. From there its 8 km inland to the trail head down a rough dirt road, hitchhike in or arrange for a ride in the town of Cochamo. The trail is 10 km long, and easy to follow. It can be very wet and muddy after heavy rains.

Food – Buy all major food in Puerto Montt, of Puerto Varas. There are several large grocery stores, with a large selection of good cheap food. Small re-supply trips can be done in the town of cochamo, but expect only basic food, and at a higher price.

Fuel – White gas is widely available in Chile. Butane canisters are sometime harder to find.  Cooking over campfires is the norm in good weather.

Camping – Base camp sites are available at La Junta for 5$ U.S per person per night. Camping at the high camps near the walls is free and is where you’ll spend most of your time.  Free camping is normally offered to those who are putting up new routes, and willing to help around the Refugio.

When to go – The main climbing season runs from December to mid March, February is considered the high season, prices can be slightly higher, but the large horseflies called Tabanos have mostly died off. February is historically the driest and busiest month. Crowding on climbs is never a problem.

Weather – Long periods on rain are possible throughout the season, so come prepared. Tarps, rain gear, and rubber boots are considered the norm.

Gear – A full doubles set of cams is the norm, including at least one #5, and a set of nuts including micros.  Bring aid gear if you’re keen on new routing.

Bolting – bolts can be bought for 5$/bolt and hanger, and the hammer drill can be used with the understanding that you drop it you bought it! Hand drilling is also common when the drill’s not around.